Posts Tagged 'Pedernales River'

High and Dry

high-and-dry

It’s hard to believe that all of the ground i hiked yesterday at Pedernales State Park was under water just a couple weeks ago. The rains back then registered at over 20,000 CFS. An amazing number when you consider that 50-100 is the average flow, but High and Dryeven more eye popping when you walk down the banks now, look up and see an uprooted tree perched 50 feet up in another tree.

The conditions were a little weird with water clarity only being about twelve inches. I know that there a lot of fish in there but i just couldn’t seem to spot any, i’m guessing they’re hunkered down on the bottom waiting for the “Four Fishmen of the Apocalypse” to come swimming in, drought and parasites in tow.

I’m not sure what the deal is, but i feel like i’m loosing any skills that i might have acquired over the last few years of fly-fishing, what with the continual skunked days and all. I mean i guess it is possible that the fish are a little nervous after spending months in drought conditions, only to have them be replaced by flooding flows. It just seems so weird to blame a fish that is living completely in the moment, while my mind and cast might be distracted by a thousand things such as, how am i going to get out of debt, should i go back to school, and why the hell aren’t the fish biting?

The highlight of the day was seeing the colors that the cooler weather is bringing Fall colors on the Pedernales.out. The Bald Cypress are turning rust red, the flowers are blooming like wild fire and the vegetation is doing everything it can to harness the recent surplus of water before the freezing temperatures set in.

I really only saw a couple fish at all during a whole day of fishing, and these were Carp feeding off the surface, so if you’re willing to risk possible disappointment be my guest, just bring lots of dries.

Oh yeah, when you start getting frustrated from the lack of bites on your fly, just look up…look around…suck it in, and smile. It worked for me.

Be Careful What You Wish For!

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Okay, enough already. It’s getting to be so a fly-fisher can’t go anywhere but the San Marcos, and not even there if he doesn’t have a car.

Having just one car this week meant that “Family Fun Day” (aka Sunday) was my first chance to get further than a bike ride away from the homestead.  After taking a family vote we all ended up piling in the Element and headed out for the mighty Pedernales River to hike, explore, and possibly fish.  The water flow there had been dropping for days, so i hoped against hope that i’d be able to spot a few fish. No such luck. There is just too much water all over Central Texas right now (what a difference six months can make).  None the less, it was nice to cast some line and try some of my newly invented flies, if for no other reason than to see if they floated.

I have off on Thursday, i should have a car again, and i’m hoping (for the first time in a long time) that it doesn’t rain much between now and then. But just to cover my bases i’ll be heading to the San Marcos. I promise not to do any more dances or say any more prayers under my breath wishing for rain…at least for a while.

Dirty but beautiful.

Pedernales Falls at 100 CFS.

RAIN!

It seemed like it would never happen, but we’re finally getting some wetness down here in southern Texas.

I spent 7 hours hiking around a couple of the Hill Country rivers yesterday and got drenched the whole entire time. It felt so out of the ordinary after the intense dryness of the last 6 months. It actually felt down right tropical to have  appropriate amounts of water and lots of fresh greenery.

It's Raining!

It's Raining!

It might be hard for those you outside of southern Texas to realize what this means, but basically it’s the first rain that’s lasted longer than 15 minutes since at least March if not months before that. MONTHS i repeat, MONTHS…many of them…without any rain that accumulated. One week before the above photo was shot,  the river was about 10 feet wide along this stretch, here it’s easily 50. Hopefully it’s a sign of things to come. It was wet and muddy everywhere, and yet the hours of hiking were more enjoyable than anything i’ve experienced this year. Even my pruned hands were a delight to observe after hours casting to non feeding fish.

Where are the singing "California Raisins" now?

Where are the singing "California Raisins" now?

Plus, the usually tedious two mile hike back to the car even managed to feel adventurous in the middle of a torrential downpour. Here’s to it lasting.

"The Long and Not So Winding Road."

"The Long and Not So Winding Road."

Testing the Waters

Well, after a good solid week of practicing tying Wooly Buggers i finally made it out to put them to the test. The Pedernales seemed like the logical choice since the bass there can be MUCH more picky than the sunfish here in town. I figured getting fish in the Pedernales interested in my flies would be a true test, especially the Guadalupe Bass there which have turned down numerous offerings i’ve made to them in the past.
Hand tied, and they worked!

Hand tied, and they worked!

Having watched the flow charts carefully for quite sometime i was prepared for the worst, but it was still amazing to see the small trickle of water moving from pool to pool. Deep pools that were normally my favorite to fish were only a foot or two deep while some areas i’ve fished recently were nothing but sand banks. The largest pools were cloudy from a combination of stagnant water and the Carp stirring up trouble with their bottom feeding habits. After quite a bit of hiking, especially considering it was 101 degrees, i settled on a three foot deep pool with clear visibility. I saw a small Guadalupe in the 12-14″ range and cast my weighted Olive Wooly Bugger with silver ribbing to his left. Two quick strips and the fish was on the hook. I’ve read before that fly tiers never forget the first time a fish took their fly, and now I understand why that is. The magic of taking a bunch of inanimate objects, melding them together into art, throwing them into the water, and having them be perceived as living / breathing things by another living creature is quite powerful stuff.

1st fish caught on my own hand made flies.

1st fish caught on my own hand made flies.

When the fish came to hand i was still in such shock that i had a hard time getting the hook removed from the deep set that it had made in the fishes mouth. Weighing the fishes struggle of having a hook in it’s mouth or excessive handling which would further tax an already exhausted fish, i snipped the line and wished the fish luck while thanking it for the fight. So if you see a beautiful fish with a Bugger in it’s mouth, take it easy on him. He’s just a connoisseur of the arts.

Cacti 30 feet up in a dead tree. Only in Texas.

Cacti 30 feet up in a dead tree. Only in Texas.

Hot as…

P6280058Well i finally adjusted, somewhat to the heat and set out today for the Pedernales. This was my first full day fishing exscursion since returning from the fairer climates in Colorado and New Mexico, and i have to say…it’s hot and dry here folks. The Pedernales is at least two feet down from the last time i was here just a month ago which at that time seemed low. The low water combined with all the people trying to cool off made for some extremely unproductive fishing. It was almost disorienting to try and find the productive pools that i thought i knew so well. Areas i would have been in over my head just a month ago only came up to my knees today. Countless rocks and sand bars i couldn’t even wade out to before were exposed to the air and sun along with me.

Just a week ago i was out here and saw some fish that were easily over 5′. After talking to my icthioligist friend i was assured that they were either catfish or that i was crazy. I searched out and spotted some again today and would like to pass along to my few readers that there are some HUGE Grass Carp in the Pedernales.

After hiking miles in the intense heat i decided to just wait for dusk, less people and less sun. After hanging out in my hammock and alternately reading / P6280060sleeping, i headed for the main pool in the beach area. I stepped out onto my lucky rock, false cast, and set my popper down gently 30 feet in front of me. Immediately i saw a large boil just inches away, something turning to attack. Wait for it…suddenly the 3WT is bouncing with enthusiasm. Run and retrieve, run and retrieve. After a minute or so i realize that this fish is not jumping or pulling in the way that sunfish do. As i real it in, i am shocked to find a 17″ Flathead Catfish with a rather large Sneaky Pete in it’s mouth.

I have only caught one other catfish, on Barton Creek last year, and i have to say that it was exhilarating to catch something so uncommon to a fly rod.

Possibly more exciting than the catfish were the amount of mammals that i saw while accidently hiking onto private land. A hawk that i was two feet away from before it abandoned it’s prey. Some Feral Pigs getting a sip from the river near me. And something that is yet undetermined that seemed like a cross between a deer P6280061and a fox. It’s hard for me to do, but obviously half of fly fishing (for me) is just exploring and taking in the sights. I struggle in this as my eyes are magnetically drawn to the waters surface. Today however i was able to avert my gaze, always a little to late, in time to see the shadow head for the tall grass. I’m working on it though, i want to see the forest for the trees, it’s just kind of hard in this drought when everything is brown.

What’s the Deal?

fish

What is the deal? I’m not a great or even good fisherman but i know that i am at least competent. Yet somehow i managed to spend five hours the other day fishing the Pedernales without catching anything.

I realize that fisher people say rather often that they got skunked…but not when they resorted to fishing for Bluegills!

When i say “Hey mate, you’re not going to believe this, but i didn’t catch ANYTHING!” i really mean it.

Yeah, the water is a little cloudy and low, and there WERE a lot of people enjoying themselves upstream and downstream…but come on! Not a Red Breast, Bluegill, Long Ear, or anything. This has been happening more and more at the Pedernales, a hopeful day turning into a failing report card. Unfortunately it just makes my resolve to go back and catch something that much stronger, and around and around  we go on the endless ride of hope / despair.

If anyone has any advice on fishing this river let me know.

In brighter news, my family and i are heading to Colorado Bend State Park tomorrow. I’m hoping that the fishing there might be a little more rewarding, fish count wise that is. I hope it’s good there, i don’t need another difficult obsession.

STAY TUNED!

Cartographers of the World Unite!

Sorry the post have been so sporadic. Most of the reason is that i’ve been spending a lot of  time planning and packing for my three week trip to the Gunnison Gorge in Colorado and the Red River/Taos area of New Mexico in less than two weeks. Any full days i’ve had off from work have been spent at Pedernales Falls, either P4230026_2alone hiking/fishing or with family relaxing on the sandy banks. It’s my hope to have a map for Pedernales created before i leave for the “Big Trip”. You can expect the map to be very similar to the Barton Springs map already located on this blog.

Pedernales State Park, and specifically the river within the park boundaries, is an ever changing place always full of new surprises. Over the last few weeks i’ve seen everything from Gin clear low waters to torrent muddy rapids that a kayaker would find a challenge. I’ve seen beautiful technicolor lizards, water snakes galore and countless Gar cruising the deep pools. Flowering cacti, numerous wildflowers, herons, hawks, hummingbirds, as well as good size fish literally leaping out from under my feet into the deeper recesses of the water…apparently startled to see humans back in the hidden areas of the park.

During these “studies” i finally broke down a personal barrier. I recently purchased a water bottle filtration unit that takes out bacteria, giardia and viruses. With great trepidation i finally filled it in one of the set of rapids in on the river and put the bottle to my quivering lips. It took forever to get to this point in my outdoor adventures and now it seems ridiculous that i used to carry a pack in there with three bottles of water weighing me down.

“Three cheers for technology.”

Anyway, if you live anywhere nearby you owe it to yourself to check it out. But if you see a fly fisherman in a backpack and a straw hat, be sure to give him some room…i’d do the same for you.

P.S. Caught this Guadalupe Bass there after sunset last week, in a pool just a couple feet deep.P4230033_2

Strange Days…

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You know the saying, “April showers bring a lot of silt and confusion for both fish and fisherman.”.

Okay, that’s obviously not the saying, but maybe it should be.  The big rains that soaked the area a couple of weeks ago have made things difficult on the rivers. Almost two weeks ago the Pedernales, which is hands down my favorite place to fish, rose to a staggering 8000 CFS. Mind you that the average flow is between 40-100 CFS, so yeah…there has been a LOT of water moving through lately. Even a week ago the water was still nothing but mud water flowing fiercely over rocks and banks that weeks before were exposed to only sun and air. 

I had hoped that with a few weeks to settle down, the river would once again be fish able. At first i felt rather hopeful since you could see about a foot down into the water, enough i hoped, to get a fly near something that might be interested. I approached a familiar bank and cast upstream with slight trepidation. As i lost my footing on the sandy bank my feet caused enough commotion that i was sure all fish in the vicinity would be heading off for quieter waters. One cast later i caught sight out of the corner of my eye of something tubular and milky colored a few inches from my feet…SPOTTED GAR! For all the time i spend outdoors i’m still FREAKED out by things that are seemingly dangerous regardless of if they actually are or not. Snakes, and Gar top this list. So seeing a gar about 3′ long just a few inches from my feet that are visually obscured by silty water was a little freaky. I fish these waters a lot and have only seen the occasional gar right at dusk. But today i would see them time and time again, probably about 10 different specimens throughout the day, the longest being a staggering four feet long in one of the more remote deep pools. 

While eating lunch on a large boulder in the middle of a deep pool a Largemouth that looked to be about 30″ long leaped straight out of the water topping out a full 3-4 inches above the water before splashing back into the milkiness and disappearing from sight before my 3 WT was even in my hand. I swear i saw a teasing smile on his face that said “Tough day of fishing, eh?”. What a punk.

The day was strangely cool / hot and overcast which tends to make Pedernales SP feel even more rustic and spooky  than it already is. So when i heard the crying of some child in danger wafting pass on the breeze i started to feel the hairs on my back stand up. They were faint and would disappear and reappear as the wind changed direction. After about 20 minutes of debating where the sounds were coming from and what i could do i leapt down from my perch to help the antagonized child. P5070063Suddenly on the opposite bank the bleating kid appeared and i remembered, goats roamed these hills. Pan and his consorts were out feeding and showing the young kids the ropes. I bleated wildley and there we stood. Me staring at him, wondering if he was the Greek god of  mountain wilds, rustic music, and hunting. And he staring at me, most likely wondering what the hell i was doing out there on a day that was obviously not meant to be fished.

Pedernales

Instead of sitting around waiting for my new Echo 2WT to show up via “The Man in the Brown Suit” i decided to make the most of my time by, what else, fly fishing. It seemed like a great excuse to reacquaint myself with the Sage 4WT that has provided me with so much enjoyment over the years.

To that affect i headed out into the drab, wet, soppy  blanket that was Thursday in the Hill Country. I’ve been exploring the angling possibilities there for the last couple of years. I have gotten to know the river intimately from the western border down about 3/4 of the way to the eastern limit. It was my goal this day to explore that remainingp41600044 25% and see what i might, or might not have been missing. It only turned out to be 2.5 miles but when you are hiking a path and constantly looking for the best place to fish you know that two miles can suddenly seem like 20. During the course of this adventure the highlight had to be a point in the trail where i was on a washed out cliff that was about 20-25 feet high. From that vantage point, i spotted pods of carp and catfish making there slow lackadaisical rounds up and down the deep pools at the base of the cliff. I had no idea that Carp swam in clusters like this until i observed it from my seemingly magical observation tower. The number of fish in the pod correlated to their size, 20 small carp, 15 medium and the show stopper to end all show stoppers (carp related at least) a group of three carp  that were each EASILY three times the size of my leg. Incredible behemoths just taking their sweet time taking out everything in sight. I don’t know for sure, but it seemed odd that after later spending hours fishing this pool, i didn’t see any older sunfish or bass, carp?

Anyway, i’m working on mapping all the pools and was curious if anyone out there has any information or stories to add about this shallow treasure called Pedernales SP that we have in our midst?

Just add a comment and share if you don’t mind.


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Check These Out!

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Barton Creek at Lost Creek

Guadalupe River at Sattler

Pedernales River at Johnson City